Day 2 - Oslo, Norway

09/11/2009


Will is ready and excited to go sight-seeing.
We woke up bright and early on the second day of our trip and started with a really good breakfast in the very pretty restaurant of The Grand Hotel. I love European breakfasts! Instead of a buffet of fried foods they offer really good bread (all of the bread in this country blew my mind -- it was soooo amazing), meats and cheeses, fruit, hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, lots of juices and fruit, raw vegetables, muesli and sometimes some hot meat and potatoes. Plus a million different condiments, including pickled herring (which I did not try!). Oh yeah, and the butter was really good, too! (My trainer is loving reading this! Haha!)

Just look at that table full of bread!
Our first stop of the day was up to the Akershus Fortress which was just a few minutes walk from the hotel. The fortress was so beautiful! It was built in 1299! Unfortunately there was no tour of the inside on the day we were there but just walking around outside was amazing and offered lots of opportunities for photos. It was here that we really got cobbled by the cobbled streets -- it was nearly impossible to push the stroller so Will got the monkey backpack on and had fun running around.

The Fortress
Will at the Fortress
Next up was the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace. We walked all the way to the other end of Karl Johans Gate which was probably close to a mile and uphill (and luckily Will fell asleep in the stroller on the way despite the bumpy ride!) While waiting for the thing to start we talked to some cute Taiwanese girls who were visiting Oslo from Denmark where they were going to school -- they were hilarious! The actual changing of the guard was, as expected, not super thrilling but still something we had to go do.

Guys. Marching around.
A walk through a gorgeous, green, tree-filled park took us to Vigeland Sculpture Park. But this time William was awake and ready to get out of the stroller. There was a really cute wooden playground and sandbox near the entrance to the sculpture park so William and I stayed there while John, Ruth and Eric went to see the sculptures. After seeing the photos of the sculptures I was glad to not have gone in -- they are really creepy! While William played I had fun just watching the locals with their children. I noticed several differences in how the Norwegian parents interacted with their kids: first, all the parents were actually WITH their kids in the sandbox or playground, instead of watching from a bench on the side. Every parent was actively involved. There were also a lot more dads there than I've ever seen at any American playground, many even alone there with their children. Also, public breastfeeding without any huge sheets or even a blanket! Very interesting to observe the cultural differences (I love stuff like that).

Uh...what's supposed to be going on here exactly? Glad I protected my child's innocence and kept him out of the sculpture garden. :)

Ruth and Eric in the sculpture garden. That is one angry baby.

William happily plays in the sandbox with some Norwegian kids and a French girl.
Once John, Ruth and Eric were done with the sculptures we decided to hop on a bus to ride back down to our hotel area. Since all the signs at the bus stop were in Norwegian we weren't sure how it all worked. So we just got on the next bus that came. And we accidentally stole a free ride. Oops! Didn't know we were supposed to pay before getting on.

For dinner we found a really beautiful little restaurant called Cafe Skansen that had super delicious food. I wish we had taken photos of everything we ate on the trip. John and Ruth had turkey with cabbage and sweet potato puree that was incredible. My open face chicken sandwich was very good. Eric had the Arctic Char which he also enjoyed. The building itself was so adorable.

Can you find us in this photo?
I was ready to move right in. How lovely is this restaurant?
After dinner we found dessert at a fun cafe on the way back to the hotel. I had a chai latte and a little marzipan filled chocolate (had to get it cause it says 'William'!), Ruth had hot chocolate and the boys went to the bakery next door.

Cute cafe!

Good chocolate.
By this time we had to head to the airport for our first (of many) domestic flight of the trip. We picked up our bags from the hotel and then walked all the way back down Karl Johans Gate to the train station for the 20 minute train ride to the airport. It was just a short plane ride to Stavanger and a bus ride to our hotel -- The Myhregaarden. Our room was quite small but really cute with a black chandelier and gas fireplace. We had to get to bed right away because in the morning we were going to hike Preikestolen -- Pulpit Rock!

Day 1 - Oslo, Norway

09/09/09-09/10/09

On the plane.
We did it! We survived over 13 hours of airplane travel with an almost 2-year-old! I was really nervous about our flights to Oslo but everything went more smoothly than I thought it would. Naps, snacks, airplane books and Little Einsteins on the iPod made it easy -- as did the extra seat we got lucky enough to score for the longest flight from New Jersey to Oslo. Will fell asleep and slept for the night in the extra seat which meant that we could get some sleep, too!

We landed in Oslo, Norway at about 9:30 am. The airport was beautiful -- all glass, vaulted ceilings and light wood. Definitely Scandinavian. We caught the airport express train into the city -- our first experience with the outrageously high prices of things in this country! -- which also gave us our first little taste of what Norwegian culture is like. The train was very quiet. No one was speaking and even though there were television screens on in the train, there was no sound. There were also no advertisements in the train. It was all very refreshing compared to the bombardment of advertising and constant audio everywhere in the States. People even respected the "no cell phones" signs in the part of the train we were in and took their calls outside the compartment. Amazing!

Karl Johans Gate in Oslo -- the main drag, also where our hotel was located.

The Grand Hotel Oslo
The train ride to the center of Oslo was only about 20 minutes. From there we had about a 10-15 minute walk up Karl Johans Gate to our hotel. We were able to leave our luggage since we were too early to check-in and then immediately went out to hit the sites! We knew we'd have a long day ahead of us trying to catch up to local time (9 hours ahead) so our plan was to stay busy and power-through.

Ready to see some stuff!
This stroller was not designed for cobbled streets, to be sure. Cobbled!
Now here I have to talk about strollers and European streets. I bought this little travel stroller at the last minute before leaving LA (I was originally going to backpack Will around the entire trip - what was I thinking?). I wanted something lightweight and portable as we were trying to pack as light as possible. Well, this stroller is light and portable -- but not so great for cobblestone streets. This stroller, with its small, swively wheels and non-existent shocks, was definitely designed for American sidewalks, pavement and ramped curbs. It's been quite the adventure trying to push this thing over the very cobble-y streets of Norway. Everyone here has these prams with large wheels and shocks and I have definitely wished for one of these guys every day of the trip.

The only advantage to having the small stroller is that when traveling by plane we can push Will all the way up to the door of the plane and then just fold the stroller up and put it in the overhead compartment. I saw a family checking their pram on our most recent flight and it was actually quite an ordeal -- it has to be broken down into two parts, bagged, and then checked like luggage.

So, there have been advantages and disadvantages to this little rickety thing but overall, I'm just glad to have brought anything! The compromise between the big pram and a tiny stroller would actually be our normal stroller we use at home that has larger wheels that can also be locked into a fixed position (so they don't swivel and get stuck in between cobbles). If we ever travel in Europe again with a stroller-aged kid, this is definitely what we'll do.

Stave churches are sooo cool!
First on our itinerary was a visit to the Norwegian Folk Museum. It's located on a little piece of land that juts out into the harbor. To get there we had to take a 10-15 minute ferry ride and then a short walk through adorable neighborhoods, which I loved. The Folk Museum is a collection of structures from different time periods and areas of Norway all moved to this one area. It was incredible. The time span of these buildings was from the 1300s up to examples of present-day decor. This museum was a highlight of Oslo for me as I love historical things that represent day-to-day life and any kind of house in general. There was also a Stave church at the museum which was very cool to see. Stave churches are completely wooden and very dark inside -- there are just a couple of small windows to let in any light at all. I'd like to learn more about them.

This grass-roofed cottage is from the 1300s!! Too cool.

Walking around the neighborhoods.
I love me some white houses!
Viking ship!
The next stop for the day was the Viking Ship Museum which was just another short walk away. The museum is quite small but worth going to. The building itself is beautiful and the ships are really cool. There are also several other Viking era artifacts to see there.

After the ferry ride back across the harbor, we had dinner at a hopping but disappointing (to be expected) Tex-Mex restaurant and were definitely ready for bed at about 8:30.



A review of our hotel: The Grand Hotel is beautiful and historic (opened in 1874). The rooms were small but very clean and comfortable (love Scandinavian beds)! The breakfast was amazing, the concierge and desk staff were very nice and helpful and the location could not be beat. The only complaint I have is that our room faced the back of the hotel which also happens to share the street with a bar and the delivery area of the hotel. The first half of our night was spent trying to sleep through loud music and voices and the second half was spent listening to delivery trucks drive in and out. Luckily we had earplugs, which helped a bit, but I would definitely recommend getting a room that is not in the back. It was not the most restful night I've ever had.

This concludes the first day of our grand adventure. Stay tuned for more fun!